The 1870s to the 1890s

Beginning in the 1870s, the shape of dresses began to change as the bustle became popular. Complicated short trains often accompanied the tightly fitted dresses of this decade. In the 1880s, the bustle continued to be a mainstay and was often achieved by pulling material from an apron-like swathe in front into a bustle in back.

In the 1880s, while wedding fashion changed only slightly, wedding traditions began to change. For the first time afternoon wedding ceremonies became popular and the custom of having small children, especially boys, as train bearers began.

In the 1890s, while the size of the bustle was diminishing, the size of sleeves began to grow. Sleeves were usually close fitting from the wrist to the elbow, but sleeve heads grew to often large proportions.

This "leg of mutton" style sleeve can be seen in this 1890 wedding gown worn by Sally Levi. This satin and lace gown is indicative of the time, with its narrow waist, elaborate bodice and full train.